Andy Is Not Joshua, But He Led Us To the Promised Land...

Moriarty Lake was finally conquered today.  After months of trying to find a way into the "Promised Land" and to get to Moriarty Lake, Andy and I made it. 

A few days ago , Andy sent me a GE map with a very rough looking trail on it, called simply "the key".  Well, today, we tried it.  Andy was not optimistic and mentioned several times that he had his doubts, but I'm glad to report, his pessimism was misplaced.  We made it!  No more gate Nazi; no more logging company dictating  our access to public lands.

We set off early after meeting with our mentor, Ryan, at Starbucks.  Ryan deserves some credit here, before I go on; he's the man who "infected" me with this dirt bike/dual sport lark, and I seem to have passed the disease onto Andy.  After coffee, it was off to Doumont Road and the tank traps.  We made quick time on branch 142 north and then the Englishman River Main south until we got to 155N and took a left (east).  We had been down this road a month or so ago and were both stopped by snow, but given the recent warm/hot weather, we decided to try it again.  Be warned, there were several large trucks (quarry-road surface trucks and logging trucks out and about and they didn't seem to mind if they squashed us...Fascists?  Probably not, but I doubt they use sunscreen on their necks).

Here are the maps:

Map 1 Above: Head NW on 142 from Boomerang until you reach the Englishman River Main.  Turn left and head SW until you reach Branch 155N on your left.  Take it.

Map 2: Above - an overview of the entire route. 

Map 3: Below: Head south on 155N until you reach the pin labelled "An Easier Alternative"

Map 4 Above: more detail of the area;

Map 5 Below: look fro the lime green connector "Andy's Key to Paradise"...This is the trail that connects the NW LD to the Nanaimo Lakes LD...The one they don't want us to know about...

Map 6 Below: A close up of Andy's Key Trail (Lime Green). 

This trail is very easy to miss.  If you reach the dead end, then you've missed it. It's been "quadded" a little, but is fairly easy to traverse.  I imagine if it was wet, then it could be tricky with the wood, branches and bark that litter the floor.  Once you're on the "Nazi Bipass" trail, then you are home free.  But be warned: while this trail starts out easy, it does get fairly rocky in parts and worse, almost obscured by small alder .  It's nothing to stop you though, but take your time.

A Movie of Traversing Andy's Key Trail:

Map 7 Above: There was another trail on our right which looked in good fettle (in Blue) before we got to Andy's Key.  This *may* provide us with an easier route into the Moriary Lake road which is an easier trail than the alder/rocky strewn trail we encountered (see Map 4 above)

Map 8 Below: Detail of the Alternative Key (Paul's Key).  The pink trail will be the challenge...:

But if this trail works, then it leads to a far more traversable trail than Andy's Key does. 

While Andy's Key is a viable alternative to a locked gate and gate keeper refusing access, it is a long, slow and technical trail.  Within a few years, unless you quadders get in there with chain saws, we're going to be SOL with that trail. 

Unfortunately for me, and Andy, we only had time for a brief stop at Moriarty Lake for lunch.  The side we stopped at was quite shallow and weedy, and wouldn't be a good fishing spot.  However, it looks like a nice place for a camp (perhaps on the little island?).  I had to rush back to pick up my daughter from sailing, and it would have been nice to check out the 4th Lake gate en route to the Cowichan Valley which we weren't allowed to pass last week.  As it was, we had to speed back via 4th lake and run the gamut of the Gate Nazi.  However, all gates were open, and the Nazi and his caravan were elsewhere...  A week ago he told us no access for eons; this week no sign of him.  Perhaps the Russians got him.

Here are some pictures and vids of the day's events:

 Above: From just before Andy's Key: a view of Arrowsmith.

Above: The entrance to Andy's Key; Below Moriarty Lake and Mountain: finally Moriarty is vanquished...Sherlock Dods...It's got a ring.

   

Below: the Moriarty Road is an easy quick road; a far cry from the choked alder trail we had been on some minutes before...

A Pano Vid of the area...

Well, lots to explore!  Dirt in my future...

Paul

Who Needs a KTM?

Had a great ride today.  One of my favourite parts is this section of road which I know well.  With the new tires the bike is hooking up really nicely.  KTM?  Nah.

Click to watch full screen.

Arrowsmith Lake to Cameron Lake...

I only had three hours today, so I blasted down to the Englishman River bridge and tried to find a link up from Arrowsmith Lake to Cameron Lake.  While I didn't make it all the way, I am glad to report that the logging companies are redoing the road and, if it isn't passable now, it may well be in a month or so...

Here are the maps:

These trails are mainly soft soil with jagged crush and upended sticks. They're good, but will get better as they finish working on them.  Currently the road construction is taking place all over the place here, but the equipment (graders and the like are stored near the new trail being engineered.)



From the Englishman River Bridge to the potential Cameron Lake trail linkup.  The logging company is currently recommissioning all these roads, and while they're really soft with sharp rocks and sticks on them, they should be great in a few weeks...

To the north is the aborted attempt at getting through from Cameron Lake last week with Andy; at the bottom the new roads being constructed...hope?

More detail of the trails between Cameron Lake and the southern route I tried today.

An overview of the two trails.

Not much to say except I wish I had brought my good camera.  The views of Mount Arrowsmith were quite stunning.  I thought about going up to Arrowsmith Lake, as so many other dirt bikers look to have done recently (judging by the work around and tracks), but the sign was very explicit about

surveillance cameras and patrols..., probably by helicopter judging by the heli-pad.  That could be costly.  Glad I saw last year before the sign was up.

Here are some selected pictures of nothing in particular except to highlight some areas:

The roads are great in places, particularly a km after Arrowsmith Lake where the logging companies are laying crush and compacting it down.  Once it is being used it will become more stable; as it sits right now, there's a little movement but nothing to worry about.

The grades are easy enough, and look much worse on GE than in real life.  But don't spin out to the right: it's a looonnng way down...

A view up the Englishman Valley: from whence you have come!

Mount Arrowsmith

Parksville Qualicum area from

Really, Arrowsmith looked much more impressive when not looking through a fish eye lens!

It was fast and fun riding today.

I think I will try for the wholeshot soon, with a visit to Rowbottham Lake included.  The purpose of today's trip was really to explore this area and to finish my pink gas off, but the damn bike just sips it!  I will change the air filter tomorrow though, there was dust everywhere from the NW wind.  I only saw one other vehicle: a road bike!  He was going very gingerly with both feet out and full leathers.  Boy, I bet he was sweating it in more ways than one.

 Finally, as I came back through the tank traps and worked around a couple of large puddles, I was flagged down by a very relieved quadder, Scott, who had blown his engine and flattened his tires.  He wanted a tow, but it was no go with one wheel drive.  The quad looked fairly forlorn in the middle of a huge puddle - it only had 50 hours on it.  I took some numbers, got to cell range and phoned his wife and best friend Travis to collect him and his quad.  It did bring it home that you can get stuck anywhere, and always have a provisions in place.  I now carry my emergency tin with me everywhere I go with two condoms for water and Viagra for courage (Just checking you're reading, mum :-).

Paul

3 Days Dual Sport Camping - Trout, B24 Bombers & Ghost Towns

I went for  our first ride/camp with Andy last week through the Cowichan Lake, Nitinat, Clayuquot and Alberni Valley areas.  We had been planning something like this for years, so we were both pumped.  The initial plan was to ride from the 2nd Lake area via 4th Lake to Cowichan Lake and then to Flora Lake and back.  However, the local logging company who lease the land from the government have taken in upon themselves to lock all their gates and station security at the main gate.  There were some weak explanations about "vandalism to company equipment" and quaders chewing up roads.  As it was Friday, he continued, he couldn't let us in, but if it was tomorrow, then he might turn a blind eye.  If we wanted to camp at the second lake campground, then we could pay $20, but we were not welcome to continue on. 

So that scuppered our first leg plans and we had to circumvent the Nanaimo Lakes area by riding the island highway and accessing the backroads via Youbou.  Wow, what a difference in hospitality and access between Nanaimo's reluctant TimberWest and Cowichan's Timberwest branch...

The first day's route was as shown above, starting in Youbou  and ending in a lake which was a real jewel.  While much of the route was dirt, when we turned north the road became paved and remained so all the way to the turn off for the lake. Purely for the sake of selfish exclusion, we'll call it Aurelius Lake.  The lake was the highlight of a great trip for me, and I'll be back there to sample its tranquility, amazing fishing and sublime wild camping spot.  The access to the lake was easier than I had envisioned via GE, as the logging company is re-engineering the road which leads into the Shaw Valley.  We got most of the way up, when we met an huge excavator digging up and re-grading the road.  At this point we were less than 100m from the lake, but it was a very steep section and the soil was soft and littered with rocks.  We could go no further.  The operator was extremely friendly and offered to tramp the trail down, but we declined and chatted about the lake's inhabitants, namely the trout. 

The view from the road's edge where we parked the bikes because of the excavator.  You're looking all the way to Nitinat Lake and the West Coast - (Pacific Ocean in the distance...)  Another view below...

The bikes parked because of the excavator's work just above and around the corner.

Water meadows surround the lake, so it is quite boggy and hard to find a good campsite...but despite the hardships we found one.

The view from the camp

We got a fire going in no time and I was surprised at how few bugs emerged given the recent wet weather, the numerous snow-melt streams and the boggy nature of some of the ground.  The tents were great, particularly for $15 from CDN Tire!



I caught these in no time the next morning.  Amazingly they were incredibly strong and fought much more than the local Nanaimo fish; they were aggressive and bit hard.  They were feeding on mayflies.  A great breakfast.

Day Two:  we reluctantly left the lake and headed off towards Flora Lake.  While the Nitinat Main is well groomed, the gravel is round and in ridgy piles, and the bike's movement is disconcerting at first.  Weight on the pegs and a loose grip works well, but watch those thick ridges of gravel - and don't try to turn out of them when you bury the front end in them.  We passed lots of trails to other areas like Tuck lake and took the Nitinat road following the Nitnat River before turning left and crossing the river and heading up to the RAF/RCAF B-24 Liberator plane crash site just east of Flora lake, off the Flora Main:



The switchbacks at the far west of the GE image denote the trail up to the bomber wreck.  But, and be warned, you can only ride to a certain point, beyond which you must slog up some serious grades, through some logging debris and up through thick forest to get to the crash site...

Entering the forest, about halfway now.  If you look carefully below you will see the road and bikes...It's a long hike UP on a 30C day!  You can see the typical slash/snag-strewn terrain you are fighting through to get to the site...



However, the trek up is well worth it. The following - with editorial finagling from me - is pilfered from the Pacific Wrecks site and gives details of the crash:

Pilot P/O Frederick Edward Brown, 165812 RAFVR (KIA) Lincolnshire, UK
Co-Pilot P/O James Frederick Cooke, 165715 (KIA)
Crew Sgt Frederick Douglas Hafford, 1614739 (KIA) Essex, UK
Crew Sgt Sidney Helper, 1320190 (KIA)
Crew Sgt Glyn Ivor Jones, 1837039 (KIA) Glamorgan, Wales
Crew F/O John Victor Kingdon, 147999 (KIA)
Crew Sgt Thomas MacDonald, 1369701 (KIA)
Crew Sgt Ronald May, 1596791 (KIA)
Crew F/O Morris Morganstein, 163835 (KIA) London, UK
Crew Sgt David Peggie Westwater, 1826189 (KIA) Fife, Scotland
Crashed November 10, 1944 at 3:30am

Built by Consolidated. USAAF serial number 44-10673 the plane was delivered to the RAF as Liberator B.VI with serial number KH-108 on August 9, 1944. Transferred to the RCAF and assigned to 5 OTU to the Abbotsford Detachment based at Abbotsford Airfield. Assigned squadron code "AT".  The entire crew were members of the Royal Air Force Volunteer Reserve (RAFVR). Took off on November 9th, 1944, from Abbotsford Airfield on a night navigation mission. At approximately 3:30am crashed into a mountain near Flora Lake on Vancouver Island possibly enroute to Tofino.  It is thought the entire crew was killed on impact in the crash; however, the crash site was not found until almost a year after the mission, so that can't be verified. During 2005, the wreckage included an engine, propeller, main landing gear, tail fin, fuselage, and fuel tank plus other scattered wreckage.

Ron Mills visited the crash site in 2005:
"I am logging near KH-108, and found out about it through my work mates. It took a lot of investigating to get any info on it. A very moving experience to visit, and soon the grave marker will be replaced."



The propeller which, unfortunately, people have seen fit to scrawl on and desecrate.  I wish people would understand that this a grave site.  The prop is enormous and gives incredible scale to the wreckage.   Below is a hydraulic landing leg...

The fuselage.  Judging by just how scattered these remains are, it was a heck of an impact.  It's hard to imagine any of the RAF reservists survived the initial impact; however, as the wreck wasn't located for a year, that will never be known.  November at 3000 feet in the bush wouldn't be a very hospitable time for healthy adult, let alone an injured or maimed one. 

After climbing down and riding down the trail, which was fairly steep but easy enough, we turned right and headed the short distance to Flora lake campground.  It had 4 camping spots, of which one was taken.  Wood was scarce, but the lake and location was beautiful, just not in quite the same the league as Aurelius Lake.  At one point, while Andy and I were eating and talking around the fire, a look down at the lake made me think it was raining, until i realised fish were rising everywhere for the flies.  I've never seen so many rises.  The fish here, though, seemed smaller than one would expect.  Perhaps the large ones are the wise ones...

Day 3:  We headed east and then north to find a "ghost" ex-logging town from the 60's called Franklin Camp.  The roads become roughly paved while passing Darlington and Francis lakes and some serious speed can be had, but only if you watch for the occasional deep pothole or piled up tar patches.   Franklin River Camp was, according to Wikipedia, at one time Macmillan Bloedel's largest logging operation, indeed one of the world's biggest.  Hmm.  Don't know if I'd be too proud of that.

Franklin River Camp was located where you see the highlighted red dot of trails after the first major left turn.  All that is left now is one part house, a few derelict roads and a flat gravely area with a water/fuel loading depot.

From here we turned east at the Alberni-Bamfield junction and headed for Port Alberni.  The road becomes a dirt road here, and gradually the traffic gets heavier as you start to run along the south side of the Alberni inlet.  We lunched in Alberni, then tried, in vain, to get to Arrowsmith Lake via a Cameron Lake logging road.  We even got to the Lockwood Main, but the road is so overgrown and rutted with creeks that you would need wings to get through.  We met a young lad on a Kawi 450 race bike who was trying to get to Rowbotham Lake, but he was finding no joy either. You can see our aborted attempt above on GE.  Finally, we had to succumb to the tarmac and ride home via the blacktop.  But I haven't fully given up on the idea of a back way to Arrowsmith Lake and then to the Englishman River main and back to Dumount Road...

Lessons learned from this trip?  We packed quite light, and surprisingly, in my case, I feel I still had too much.  I ate lots, but I would say the huge chocolate bar and nuts were the best snacks for energy.  I came home with a tin or two and some food left over.  I never used my camping stove which accounted for some 5 or 6 lbs on its own.  I carried a 2L snorkel pack that I could drink from on the fly.  This was a great idea, as I never had to unpack the bike looking for water.  Boiling water is a necessity as carrying enough for the trip would have meant rationing or extreme weight.  And although it is tempting to drink the alpine lake water, it's not advisable due to giardia (beaver fever).  I a very scant first aid kit including ibuprofen which came in handy for Andy.  The big Suzi handled the extra weight without a hitch and I really didn't feel it, despite the added 30-40lbs on the rear.  New Conti TKC80 tires with great blocks were a real bonus, as I've been riding with nearly worn ones all season long.  I could really feel the extra bite, particularly up hill.  The gas tank is 18L.  We calculated that I was getting 65mpg from mixed highway and dirt road usage.  That's about 22km/L.  So err on the safe side, I'd call it 20km/L, which gives me a range 360km.  In Youbou I had to fill with marked gas, as there was no premium un marked gas for sale.  You can see the line on the translucent tank: despite 3 days of riding and going a considerable distance since Youbou, some of it up hill, in 1st or 2nd gear, the rest in 3rd gear on dirt, the trusty DR has hardly used a drop.  Amazing.  I'll not be too concerned about running out gas any more.   Overall, I'd say Andy and I did extremely well considering this was our first overnighter. 

Paul